We don’t have any info on high efficiency water heating rebate & tax credit programs for 1212 yet.
I might look a lot like 2011, so here’s a re look at 2011 federal rebate programs, 1212 should look like 1212’s rebate programs.

Energy Tax Credits

Take advantage of utility rebates and potential federal tax credits to make     energy-efficient home improvements this year

The recent stimulus bill extends energy efficiency federal tax credits into 2011 and increases the maximum dollar amount allowed to $500. In addition, you can take advantage of PSE rebates and incentives for energy efficiency home improvements, including the purchase of ENERGY STAR® qualified appliances or equipment and converting from electric to natural gas home and water heating.

Consult with your tax professional and contractor on equipment qualifications before making a final decision on which home improvements to complete in order to claim the tax credits. For more information on energy-efficiency tax incentives from the Tax Incentives Assistance Program (TIAP), visit energytaxincentives.org.

Puget Sound Energy energy-efficiency rebates

Saving energy is good for you and the environment. Let us help you get started with money-saving offers on energy-efficient products and services.

For most Electric customers:

Heating systems

• Ductless heat pump (1.0 ton minimum): $800

• ENERGY STAR qualified geothermal heat pump: $1,500

• Forced-air furnace to air-source heat pump conversion: $1,000

• Air-source heat pump: $200 - $350

• Heat pump sizing and lock-out control: $200

Water heating systems

• ENERGY STAR® qualified heat pump water heater: $250

• Storage (.94 Energy Factor or higher): $50

• Waste-water heat recovery system: $250

Converting to natural gas

• Home and water heating: $1,950 – $3,950

• Home heating only: $500 – $2,500

• Water heating only: $950

For most Natural Gas customers:

Heating systems

• ENERGY STAR qualified boiler (95 percent AFUE): $350

• ENERGY STAR qualified forced-air furnace: $100

• Fireplace: $200

Water heating systems

• ENERGY STAR qualified tankless: $150-$200

• ENERGY STAR qualified storage: $100 (.67 Energy Factor or higher

Energy Efficiency Tax Credits

The Federal Energy Tax Credit and You

With the passage of President Obama’s Economic Stimulus Bill, homeowners may be eligible for a tax credit if they purchase certain types of heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems, water heating equipment, or make other energy-related improvements to their home between January 1, 2009 and December 31, 2011. Depending on the type of system or product installed, it is possible to qualify for a tax credit of up to $1500 on your 2009 or 2010 income tax return or up to $500 on your 2011 income tax return. Read on to learn how the government’s tax credit program works, which products or systems are eligible, and how to apply for a tax credit.

How did the tax credit come about?

On February 17, 2009, President Obama signed the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act (also known as the Economic Stimulus Bill) into law. This legislation combines spending and tax incentives designed to get the American economy moving again by investing in our nation’s roads and energy infrastructure, and by providing incentives for increasing the efficiency and performance of America’s homes and commercial buildings.

How do I apply for a 2011 Tax Credit?

For qualified improvements, homeowners may be able to claim tax credits equal to 10 percent of the installed costs (up to $500 maximum*). The extended tax credit is in effect for all qualifying systems and products installed during the 2011 calendar year and expires on December 31, 2011. The tax credit applies as a direct reduction of taxes owed. In the past, the IRS has directed taxpayers to use form 5695 (the Residential Energy Efficient Property Credit). It is expected that the IRS will produce new rules related to the recently enacted stimulus legislation, giving taxpayers further guidance on claiming tax credits. To fully understand how the new tax credit may apply to you and what you can do to obtain one, you should consult a tax professional.

Qualified products or systems installed during 2009 and 2010 may also qualify for a tax credit equal to 30 percent of the installed costs (up to $1500).

How do I learn more about the energy efficient solutions?

WSB is committed to meeting the needs of homeowners in a very dynamic environment. We can familiarize you with the broad range of energy-efficient solutions. Please contact us with any questions you may have and we will be pleased to help you select the best product or system for your needs.

Which products are eligible?

Some, but not all heating and air conditioning products may qualify for the tax credit. Please contact us and we will help to determine whether your product is eligible.

To download and print the government’s summary of Energy Star products that are eligible for HVAC credits for homeowners, click here.

Have the tax credits been extended for 2011?

On December 17, 2010, President Obama signed the Tax Relief, Unemployment Insurance Reauthorization, and Job Creation Act of 2010. This law extends the tax credits for energy efficiency into 2011, BUT at lower levels. The levels revert back to those in effect in 2006 and 2007, which were 10 percent of the cost of the improvement, up to $500, with a $200 maximum for windows, and several other set maximums.

Highlights:

• $500 lifetime limit. If you got over $500 in these tax credits from 2006 to 2010, you are not eligible for anything more.

• 10 percent up to $500 for insulation, roofs, and doors.

• Windows capped at $200, but qualifications now ENERGY STAR.

• Furnace and boilers capped at $150, and all furnaces and boilers must meet 95 AFUE.

• $50 for advanced main air circulating fan.

• $300 for air conditioners, air source heat pumps, water heaters, and biomass stoves.

What is Energy Star Home Sealing?

ENERGY STAR Home Sealing is a comprehensive set of recommended steps for improving the “envelope” or “shell” of your home by sealing up air leaks and adding insulation. Home Sealing can make your home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and lower your utility bills. ENERGY STAR Home Sealing will also make your home quieter by reducing outside noise and help prevent pollutants, such as pollen and car exhaust from the garage, from entering your home. Making improvements to your home with the process of ENERGY STAR Home Sealing can save you up to 20 percent on your annual heating and cooling bills.

* $300 maximum for a qualifying air conditioning system, heat pump, or packaged system, $150 maximum for a qualifying furnace, and $50 maximum for a qualifying product with an advanced circulating fan.

Connecticut Light & Power Water 2011 Rebate Programs for Water Heaters.

We condensed all the rebate information for all the different water heaters rebates CL&P offers on one page here, but if you would rather see the original go here.
http://www.cl-p.com/home/saveenergy/rebates/gashotwaterrebate.aspx

When your ready to talk to a professional call us for a free estimate.  We can easily replace your old water heater with one that qualifies for the 2011 rebate.  We have been in water heater busienss, repairing & replacing water heaters for over 20 years and have installed well over 20,000 water heaters throughout Connecticut. From Greenwich to Old Say Brook to West Hartford, and every town in between we have installed a water heater. We have likely been on in your neighborhood before. We offer up front pricing, fast service, and affordable rates on the best water heaters you can get, and always perform the most professional plumbing service you can get.  If this is your first time to our website take an extra minute or two and look around within the different sections, and you will see many installation stories about nearly every kind of water heater that is on the market.  This site is a great place to do some research on new water heaters, and find a local installers.  Connecticut is our base of operation, so if you live in CT give us a call today.  We’re your local plumbing company that specializing in water heaters!  When you’re ready give us a call for a free estimate.  (800)524-4280 or directly at (203)301-4732

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Gas Hot Water Rebate

High-Efficiency Natural Gas Hot Water Equipment Will Save You Energy and Money

Want to cut the cost of heating water in your home? Now is the time to replace your old inefficient water heating system or install a new system using energy-efficient equipment. Yankee Gas, Southern Connecticut Gas and Connecticut Natural Gas now offer special incentives for replacing or installing new systems. You’ll be glad you did. In addition to saving energy and money, you’ll be doing your part to conserve our natural resources for future generations.

Through Yankee Gas, Southern Connecticut Gas, Connecticut Natural Gas and the Connecticut Energy Efficiency Fund, you may qualify for a $300 incentive for installing an energy-efficient indirect water heater attached to a natural gas ENERGY STAR® rate boiler or an on-demand natural gas-fired tank less water heater. Simply complete the Natural Gas Water Heater Rebate Application [PDF:157 KB] . Please note that all installations of high-efficiency water heating systems must be installed by a licensed contractor and/or plumber in order to qualify for the rebate. See the Connecticut Department of Consumer Protection Online License Verification web site.

For more information, at 1-877-WISE-USE (1-877-947-3873).

Heat Pump Water Heater Rebate

Want to cut the cost of heating water in your home?

Now is the time to replace your old inefficient electric water heating system. Through a partnership with the Connecticut Energy Efficiency Fund, Connecticut Light & Power and The United Illuminating now offer a $400 incentive for replacing your old electric water heater with a heat pump water heater.

Geothermal Heat Pump Rebate

Geothermal rebates are available from the Connecticut Energy Efficiency Fund and the Connecticut Clean Energy Fund. The Energy Efficiency Fund incentive programs are administered by Connecticut Light and Power and The United Illuminating Company. The Clean Energy Fund incentive program, which is managed by Connecticut Innovations, is being conducted in parallel. Projects approved under the Clean Energy Fund incentive program must meet the energy-efficiency and performance verification requirements of the Energy Efficiency Fund program.

Customers must apply to both programs
in order to qualify for either incentiveIf you are replacing equipment in an existing home, please click on the link below:

2011 Existing Home Retrofit/Replacement Energy Efficiency Fund Process

The 2011 Geothermal Heat Pump Retrofit Prequalification Application has been created to verify existing homes meet required energy-efficiency levels to maximize benefit to customers.

The Energy Efficiency Fund retrofit rebate is for replacement of existing heating and cooling systems to geothermal closed loop or direct expansion, packaged or matched coil/split* including water to water-designed types up to six tons per unit. Prequalification applications must be stamped by CL&P/UI program administrator. 2011 final applications are in effect until December 31 of the year following the date of acceptance by the Clean Energy Fund.

*Multiple sections and fans must be AHRI matched.

The Energy Efficiency Fund rebate is $500 per nominal AHRI-rated cooling ton for successfully commissioned geothermal systems to a maximum six-ton unit. The geothermal rebate is capped at $1,500 per dwelling unit.

Please check the Clean Energy Fund for additional rebates that may be available.

Geothermal equipment must be a closed loop or direct expansion type and ENERGY STAR ® qualified for 2012 Tier 3 requirements in order to be eligible
for a rebate.

Factory testing must be done under appropriate test conditions:
AHRI/ISO/ASHRAE Standard 13256-1 closed loop systems;
AHRI/ISO/ASHRAE Standard 870 for DX systems

A list of ENERGY STAR geothermal equipment can be found at:
www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=geo_heat.pr_geo_heat_pumps

Be aware of the time limitations of the rebate offers!

Existing homes must prequalify for the Geothermal Rebate program. For prequalification, the home must be assessed by a Home Energy Solutions contractor and meet minimum energy efficiency requirements. Please click Home Energy Solutions for details and a list of contractors. Both the Energy Efficiency Fund and the Clean Energy Fund rebates must have approved applications and will be paid separately. Applicants must meet the requirements of both programs to be paid on either rebate. The Clean Energy Fund rebate detail is located at www.ctcleanenergy.com.

Step 1) A prequalification application completed by a Home Energy Solutions contractor and the customer must be submitted to the Geothermal Project Coordinator. The application must be filled out completely, t ruthfully and accurately. Energy Efficiency Fund Application Form: Geothermal Heat Pump Retrofit Prequalification Application [PDF:49 KB]

Step 2) Mail or Fax the completed prequalification application to:
Tammy Wilson, Geothermal Project Coordinator
Connecticut Light & Power
P.O. Box 270, Hartford, CT 06141
Fax: 860-665-3874

Once prequalification approval is granted, a stamped Energy Efficiency Fund Geothermal Final Incentive application will be provided to the customer.

Step 3) Apply to the Clean Energy Fund geothermal rebate program. The application is located at: www.ctcleanenergy.com.

Step 4) Choose a Clean Energy Fund approved contractor for your installation.

Step 5) Once the system is operational, the geothermal contractor must attach a Verification of Installed Performance report (VIP) in excel format to Mark Foley. The report must be within 15% of the AHRI-rated energy use specification. This report shall be completed at:

• Closed Loop System Worksheet
• Direct DX System Worksheet
• Water to Water System Worksheet

If you are building a new home, please click on the link below:

2011 New Home Geothermal Energy Efficiency Fund Process

We are helping spread the good news.   PG&E is offering rebates for all new high(er) efficient water heaters for 2011.
Read all about it here, or check it out on the official page.  http://www.pge.com/saveenergymoney/rebates/waterheater/

Energy-Efficient Water Heaters

New energy-efficient water heaters take less energy and time to heat water so there is less waiting time between showers and laundry loads. Installing a new energy-efficient water heater can help you save energy and money. Now get up to a $50 rebate on qualifying products.

How to Apply

Hot Energy Savings

• Save up to $159 over the product’s estimated 13 year lifetime*
• Help reduce greenhouse gas emissions

*Savings based on 30-50 gallon .63 Energy Factor [EF] natural gas water heaters. EF is a measure of energy efficiency.

How to Get Your Rebate

Natural Gas Tank Water Heater

• Customer must have natural gas distributed by PG&E to the installation address.
• Gas tank (aka storage) water heater must have an Energy Factor (EF) of
  • 0.62 to 0.64 for the $30 rebate.
  • 0.65 or greater for the $50 rebate.
• Capacity must be 40 gallons or more.
• Must be new and meet or exceed all applicable local, state and federal standards.

Electric Storage Water Heater

• Electric storage water heater must have an Energy Factor (EF) of 0.93 or greater for a $30 rebate.
• Capacity must be 40 gallons or more.

See a list of qualifying residential water heaters and the corresponding energy efficiency ratings.

Exclusions: No instantaneous or tankless water heaters.

PG&E’s 2010-2012 rebate program is available for qualifying products purchased and installed between January 1, 2010 and December 31, 2012. Payment of rebates is not guaranteed as funds are limited, and amounts and offerings are subject to change. All rebate program terms and conditions apply.

Why spend hours on the computer doing research?  We have this down to a science.  Invite us over for a free estimate today.

800-524-4280

Connecticut’s Favorite Water Heater Installers!

To schedule an appointment to have one installed in your home or business call us today.

or write us at   mr.waterheaters@yahoo.com

WaterHeatingInfo.com is a CT based company owned by licensed plumbers.

We provide top quality water heater installations, services, free estimates, installations and repairs on all Rheem, Ruud, Bradford white, State, and A.O. Smith electric, gas, propane, Bock, Thermaflow/Everhot oil fired hot water heaters, Navien, Rheem, Noritz, and Takagi tankless water heaters, Ruud, Bock, and lochinvar oil fired water heaters, SuperStor storage tanks, Peerless, Laars, and Crown tankless coils, and repairs on all hot water heater throughout the state of Connecticut including Bridgeport, CT- Bristol, CT- Cheshire, CT- Danbury,CT- Derby,CT- East Hartford,CT- East Haven,CT- Enfield,CT- Fairfield,CT- Hamden,CT- Hartford,CT- Meriden,CT- Orange,CT- Middletown,CT- Milford,CT- New Britain,CT- New Haven,CT- New London,CT- Norwalk,CT- East Norwalk,CT- Norwich,CT- Putnam,CT- Shelton,CT- Southington,CT- Stamford,CT- Stratford,CT- Southport,CT- Torrington,CT- Wallingford,CT- Watertown,CT- West Hartford,CT- West Haven,CT- Westport,CT- Wethersfield,CT- all shore areas, and surrounding Connecticut areas. Contact us today for a professional plumbing experience and a free estimate today. 800-524-4280

When you have a broken Dip Tube, cold water mixes near the top of the tank, which significantly reduces the amount of hot water for your bath or shower. Is the Dip Tube broken in your water heater?   Find out here.

Dip Tube.

Do you have a hot water delivery problem? Is the hot water no longer getting as hot as it once did?  Have you lost water pressure in the shower or at one of the hot water faucets?   When your hot water seems to by lasting for just 5 minutes or less, and you have a  Traditional “Tank Type” Water Heater, the dip tube is likely the culprit.   Dip tubes are made of plastic and just like everything else in this world we live in, nothing lasts forever, and nothing today seems to last as long as products produced in “the old days”.   Dip Tubes literally break down over time, and homes with “hard water” can sometimes see this process happen much faster than normally.   How fast does a dip tube break down?   Hard to say with the many different dip tube producers and water heater manufactures, but they are all designed to last over ten- fifteen years.

The purpose of the dip tube is to direct the incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank.  The pressure of the cold water entering the bottom of the tank forces the hot water up and out the hot water outlet.  A broken dip tube lets the cold water mix with the hot water at the top of the tank and reduces the pressure it exerts on the hot water.

The problem with hot water heaters manufactured between 1993 and 1997.

Between 1993 and 1997, almost all hot water heater manufacturers were buying the same defective plastic dip tubes. Depending on the Ph of your water and the temperature setting of the tank thermostats, the tubes eventually broke, crumbled, or dissolved into various size pieces. The smaller pieces made their way through the hot-water pipes to clog the filler screens on appliances like washing machines and dishwashers. The particles of plastic tubing also obstructed the strainer screens on faucets.

A broken dip tube lowers hot water heater efficiency.

Besides the loss of water pressure, the hot water heater consumes more energy trying to keep the water at the temperature selected by the homeowner. Quite often the water never gets hot enough to open the tanks thermostats, and it consumes electricity or gas continuously. Once you have replaced the defective dip tube your energy bill will drop significantly.

Identifying problem hot water heaters.

To identify if your hot water heater was made during the period when manufacturers were using the defective dip tubes, check the serial number. The first four numbers of a hot water heater’s serial number identify the month and year that it was made. If the third and fourth numbers are 93, 94, 95, 96, or 97 you have one of the affected hot water heaters.

Dip Tube diagram.

Two approaches to solving the problem.

• Your first option is to replace the hot water heater and flush out all the filtering screens on appliances and strainer screens on faucet. If your hot water heater is over ten years old, it’s nearing the end of its useful life and the best option is replacing it.
• Your second option is to replace the broken dip tube with a cross-linked polyethylene one. You will also need to flush the debris out of the hot water heater when choosing this option. The problem with this option is that there isn’t any convenient way to remove large pieces of the old dip tube that will remain in the heater and continue to dissolve and crumble with time. This continuing source of debris will continue to clog your appliance filters and faucet screens. Save yourself future headaches by replacing the hot water heater with a modern, energy efficient one.

Dip Tube Replacement Procedure.

PLEASE READ ALL THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION BEFORE ATTEMPTING REPAIR PROCEDURE:

This information is designed to address a common situation encountered in the operation of the product, and is not meant to be all-inclusive. If you are experiencing a problem not covered in this procedure, please contact Technical Information by submitting a question on our “Ask A Question” page/tab. This procedure is intended for use by licensed plumbing professionals, and reference should be made to the instruction manual accompanying the product. This applies to tank type top plumbed heaters only.

• Shut off gas or electricity and water to unit.
• Completely drain unit. Home owner may assist by doing this prior to arrival of the plumbing professional.
• Disconnect piping at cold water inlet to access dip tube.
• CAREFULLY remove remaining dip tube (to prevent further damage to tube). Additional parts may fall into the water heater creating more labor if dip tube is mishandled.
• Loosely reconnect cold water supply pipe without dip-tube.
• Remove drain valve.
• Use flashlight to check for larger pieces and remove them.
• Connect 3/4” nipple with hose adapter into the drain spud.
• Connect garden hose to adapter and run into a floor drain.
• Repeatedly flush unit by opening cold water supply at shut off and allow water to “shower” tank bottom for approximately 5-6 gallons. Allow unit to drain off each time.
• REMOVE 3/4” nipple from the drain spud; again check for large pieces and remove.
• REMOVE temperature and pressure relief valve and check for larger pieces and remove.
• Set up wet vacuum appliance (shop vacuum).
• Secure or hold vacuum hose to drain spud.
• Turn on the vacuum and the cold water supply.
• Allow water to fill above drain spud while running the vacuum.
• Shut off supply water.
• Continue to vacuum until unit is completely drained.
• Repeat as necessary.
• Look through drain spud to ensure no additional pieces of dip tube are floating in the tank. Remove pieces. If debris of dip tube is visible at this point, use 1/2″ copper tubing with 90 degree extension adapted to the shop vacuum hose and collect additional debris with vacuum.
• Install replacement dip tube.
• Reconnect cold water supply pipe.
• Reinstall drain valve.
• Refill and re-light or re-energize unit.
• REMOVE AND CLEAN faucet screens, shower heads, hot water supply filter to clothes washer and dishwasher, etc.
• Flush water until all dip tube pieces have been flushed from the plumbing fixtures.

Added Information : Clean and flush your shop vacuum (remember if shop vacuum needs to be lifted, consider the weight of the water, 8 1/2 pounds per gallon).

If you have already had repairs performed and continue to have problems with a dissentigrating dip tube you will need to contact the plumber or other service professional that performed the original repairs for follow up repair.  Included here is information from the Dip Tube Settlement regarding dissentigrating dip tubes made by Perfection Corporation.

Common question pertaining to Dip Tubes.

-FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT PEX TUBING.
-HOW TO USE PEX
-PEX TOOLS, PICS, AND PEX FITTINGS
-PEX FITTINGS, AND TOOL COMPATIBILITY CHARTS.

We are local Pex piping installers and repair experts.

Need a plumber to replace your old water pipes?  We specialize in water heaters, but we can certainly handel any and all pex installation and repairs for our clients and any home owner within our service area.

We offer affordable rates on repairs and new installations of all residential and commercial pex water plumbing lines for Connecticut.

800-524-4280

Give us a call for a free estimate today.

Even Pex located in attics, crawl spaces, and other “hard to get to” locations.

What is PEX?

PEX is cross-linked polyethylene. Through one of several processes, links between polyethylene molecules are formed to create bridges (thus the term “cross-linked). This resulting material is more durable under temperature extremes, chemical attack, and better resists creep deformation, making PEX an excellent material for hot water and other applications.

How long has PEX been used?

PEX was developed in the 1960s. PEX tubing has been in use in many European countries for plumbing, radiant heating and snow melt applications since that time. PEX was introduced in the United States in the 1980s, and has seen significant growth in market demand and production.

What are recommended uses for PEX?

PEX ’s flexibility and strength at temperatures ranging from below freezing up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit makes it an ideal piping material for hot and cold water plumbing systems, service lines,  hydronic radiant heating systems, snow melting applications, ice rinks and refrigeration warehouses.

Does your home have Old Brass, Galvanized steal, or worn out Copper pipes? Call us today. 800-542-4280 /203-556-6449

Why is PEX an excellent piping material for plumbing?

PEX is ideally suited for potable water plumbing applications. It is flexible, making it easy to install and service. PEX is able to withstand the high and low temperatures found in plumbing and heating applications, and is highly resistant to chemicals found in the plumbing environment.
Flexible systems are quieter than rigid piping. The smooth interior will not corrode which can affect other materials long term pipe flow characteristics. PEX is also very freeze- break resistant. PEX systems have fewer joints and are easier to install providing a lower cost installation over traditional plumbing materials.

How can I be sure that PEX is a safe product for plumbing?

PEX is manufactured and tested according to stringent national consensus standards: ASTM F 876, F 877, AWWA C904 and CSA B137.5.  Both the product manufacturer and independent third party testing agencies conduct routine quality control and quality assurance evaluations to insure the product meets ASTM, ANSI/NSF International and CSA Standards. Compliance with the standards ensures the end user of safety and quality. Additionally, PEX is included in all of the major model plumbing codes used in the United States and Canada; NPC, UPC, IPC and NSPC, and approved by HUD for hot and cold potable water plumbing use.

Where is PEX approved for use?

PEX is an approved material in all the current model-plumbing codes; however, some jurisdictions using older versions of these codes may not have amended the code to include PEX tubing. Contact the local authority with jurisdiction over plumbing to verify the acceptance of PEX tubing for plumbing applications in your area.

Can PEX be used under the slab?

Yes. The flexibility of PEX allows it to be supplied in coils meaning installations under the slab can be made in a single, continuous length without the need for fittings. PEX is not affected by concrete, (it is commonly encased in concrete for radiant floor heating). PEX, however, must be sleeved when penetrating a slab.

Can PEX be used for underground cold-water service applications?

Yes. Although the high temperature resistance of PEX makes it particularly suitable for hot and cold interior plumbing applications, it also makes an excellent underground water service piping. The new AWWA C904 standard also applies to PEX used in this application. PEX can be installed using the same fittings recommended for copper tube sized SDR-9 polyethylene tubing.

Can PEX be used for above ground outdoor applications?

PEX Tubing Manufacturers

No. PEX is currently designed for indoor and buried applications only and is not recommended for outdoor, above ground use. Short exposures to sunlight during construction are permissible, but should not exceed the manufacturer’s recommendations. PEX should be stored under cover, shielded from direct sunlight or in the original packaging. In the future, PEX products rated for outdoor use may be developed.

Can PEX save me money?

Yes. PEX saves money in many ways. For the installer, PEX tubing is competitively priced. Installation of flexible systems is fast because of the easy handling of the tubing and PEX installation requires fewer directional fittings. Since most plumbing problems occur at joints, fewer fittings also reduce the chances for leaks and callbacks, saving the installer even more time. The homeowner saves in the cost of the installed system, and can reduce utility costs in some layouts .

Home run or manifold plumbing systems utilizing PEX tubing can substantially reduce water and energy consumption in a home. The home-run concept provides dedicated direct lines from the manifold to the fixtures, reducing the amount of water that must be purged from the lines to get hot water at the fixture. Direct lines can be sized to the fixture requirements, further reducing the amount of time to wait for hot water. Faster hot water delivery reduces water waste and the amount of times the water heater must cycle to supply hot water.

What is the expected performance of PEX water distribution systems?

PEX is designed and tested to perform as well or better than any other material approved for hot and cold-water distribution systems. For indoor plumbing applications, PEX is expected to perform as long as copper, CPVC or any other approved plumbing distribution materials.

What joining systems are available?

There are several methods of connecting PEX, all of which involve mechanical fittings. There are two approved standard specifications for PEX connections: ASTM F 1807 and ASTM F 1960. Both reference mechanical insert fittings. The crimp fittings specified in ASTM F1807 are the most widely used. Other fitting systems, including insert and outside diameter compression fittings, are also available. PEX cannot be joined by solvent cement or heat fusion methods.

What manufacturing methods for PEX are available?

There are currently three methods for producing PEX tubing, the “Engle” or “Peroxide” (PEX-A) method, the “Silane” (PEX-B) method, and the “E-beam” (PEX-C) method . All three processes produce tubing that exceed the minimum requirements of ASTM F 876 and are acceptable for potable water distribution applications. All PEX that has been tested and certified for potable applications carries the mark(s) of nationally recognized third-party certification agencies such as NSF, IAPMO, ICBO-ES, Warnock Hersey or UL.

How long can PEX be exposed to sunlight?

PEX tubing is not intended for outdoor applications and must be stored in a covered environment not exposed to direct sunlight. Refer to manufacturer’s instructions as to how long your pipe can have UV or sunlight exposure.

What are temperature limitations for PEX?

PEX tubing can be used up to 200° Fahrenheit for heating applications. For plumbing, PEX is limited to 180° F. Temperature limitations are always noted on the print line of the PEX tubing.. PEX systems are tested to and can be used with standard T and P relief valves that operate at 210” F and 150 psi.

PEX plumbing and radiant heating systems can be pressure tested using water to check for leaks. Follow manufacturer’s instructions.

How soon after installation can you pressure test a PEX tubing installation?

PEX Tubing Manufacturers

Most PEX plumbing systems can be tested immediately after the installation is complete but follow manufacturer’s directions.. There is no wait time for glue to dry or joint to cool off. Manufacturer’s instructions should be followed in cold climates.

Where is PEX available?

PEX is available through most plumbing wholesale distributors throughout the United States and Canada. Many retail building supply outlets also supply PEX piping and fittings. Piping and fittings are commonly available in 1/4″ through 1″ CTS (Copper Tube Size) with some manufacturers also supplying larger sizes up to 2.” Because the wall-thickness is proportionate for each size, the pressure ratings are the same for all sizes.

What sizes, lengths and packaging options of PEX are available?

PEX is available in 1/4″ through 1″ CTS (Copper Tube Size) and is packaged in coils or 20′ straight lengths. Some manufacturers tubing is color-coded for easy identification of hot and cold lines. Coil lengths generally run to a maximum of 1000′ and are available in a variety of shorter lengths.

Is flexible PEX plumbed differently than rigid material plumbing systems?

Yes, the flexibility of PEX allows many directional changes to be made without fittings.  PEX systems are sized in the same manner as copper or CPVC CTS plumbing systems. PEX piping is also used in high performance manifold plumbing systems that takes advantage of the flexibility and cost effective.

What are manifold plumbing systems?

Manifold, parallel or home-run plumbing systems are much like a breaker box for the electrical system in the home. The manifold provides a common location from which all the plumbing fixtures are supplied. Some high-end manifolds also feature fixture shut-off valves allowing the user to shut off the water to individual fixtures from one location. Others are semi-home run manifolds or termination manifolds, which may feed the plumbing requirements for a room or set of rooms and reduce the number of fittings required in the plumbing system.

How are PEX systems sized?

PEX systems are sized just like other CTS plumbing materials such as copper or CPVC when used in a trunk-and-branch installation. PEX can be sized in manifold systems to meet the specific demands of each fixture, reducing water and energy waste in the home.

Is the thermal expansion/contraction of PEX a problem?

No. While PEX expands more than other plumbing materials, directional changes made with the tubing and some slack in the tubing during installation accommodate the expansion and contraction of the system if properly installed.

Is PEX freeze-break resistant?

PEX piping is freeze damage resistant and can expand and contract as water freezes and thaws within the tubing. No tubing material is freeze-break proof, however, and PEX should be installed using the same locally-prescribed insulation requirements to prevent freezing of any plumbing system.

How do I thaw PEX lines?

When water freezes inside PEX tubing, it can be thawed using a hair dryer, warm wet rags or heat tape, taking care not to overheat the tubing beyond the maximum recommended temperature.

Can PEX be joined with solvent cement?

No. PEX cannot be joined with solvent cement, glues or heat fusion. PEX is installed using only mechanical fittings or compression fittings.

What is Crosslinking? Crosslinking is a process, a chemical reaction that occurs between polyethylene polymer chains. Crosslinking causes the HDPE to become stronger and resistant to cold temperature cracking or brittleness on impact while retaining its flexibility. The three methods of crosslinking HDPE are the Engels method (PEX-a), the Silane Method (PEX-b), and the Radiation method (PEX-c). Several industry participants claim that the PEX-a method yield more flexible tubing than the other methods. All three types of PEX tubing meet the ASTM, NSF and CSA standards.

PIPING

PEX Plumbing – Trunk & Branch Plumbing – Residential PEX Manifold Plumbing – Home Run Plumbing Layouts

Residential plumbing system layouts come in a variety of shapes and sizes, with a number of different types of plumbing layouts, and piping materials.

Trunk and Branch Residential Plumbing Layouts

For decades, trunk and branch (T&B) plumbing layouts have been used by plumbers and home builders for water distribution using iron pipe, copper pipe, and rigid pipe. Trunk and branch plumbing layouts use a main trunk line to supply various branch take-offs to specific fixtures.

The trunk line services numerous branch lines, each branch lines serving generally one to three closely grouped outlets, such as in a bathroom where there may be one or two sinks, a toilet and a shower.

With trunk and branch plumbing the plumber usually uses rigid pipe, and generally follows the beams and trusses when installing the piping.  This means extensive use of elbows and longer pipe runs than if the pipe was run directly from the water heater to the fixture.

Recirculating systems don’t work will with trunk and branch plumbing layouts, since they don’t include the branch lines in the circulating loop.  (See Fig 1) Demand hot water systems suffer similar problems, although one could use multiple demand pumps.

Residential PEX Manifold Plumbing Systems

A relative newcomer to the residential plumbing system is the PEX manifold plumbing layout.  A manifold system is similar in a way to the trunk and branch system in that it has a single trunk line leading to a manifold which in turn sends a single branch line to each fixture or closely spaced group of fixtures such as in a bathroom. (Fig 2)

In some situations the manifold type plumbing layout can work well with recirculating systems and demand hot water systems.  For example, if the trunk lines are long, a pump could be placed at the manifold to rapidly fill the trunk lines.  The branch lines being much smaller in diameter hold a much smaller volume of water and thus have a high flow rate.  With high flow rates the deliver is rapid and wastes only a small amount of water.

These systems are sometimes referred to as remote manifold systems.  These systems are sometimes combined into a hybrid system, for instance, it could have two or three trunk lines with a remote manifold at the end of each trunk.  All kinds of combinations are possible.  A single trunk line could have several flow-through manifolds and one at the end of the trunk line.

With PEX manifold systems shut off valves are often located at each outlet on the manifold allowing you to turn off individual fixtures for repair or replacement without shutting off the water to the whole house.

Home Run Plumbing Layouts

PEX piping systems make it ideal for use in home-run plumbing systems. In this design, all fixtures are fed from dedicated piping that runs directly from central manifolds. The hot water manifold should be located in close proximity to the hot water source to ensure fast and efficient delivery. (Fig 3)

Because inline fittings are eliminated, pressure losses along the line are reduced, allowing the piping size to be reduced for certain fixtures. Three-eighths-inch piping may be used for lower flow applications and 1/2-inch piping is recommended for higher flow applications.

If the manifold is installed using a valve at each outlet, many plumbing codes do not require a second valve at the fixture. This speeds installation and adds convenience.

The 3 different connection methods for Pex.

Crimp Connection Method

The standard method for connecting PEX pipe to brass PEX fittings uses a copper crimp ring and a PEX crimping tool. The copper crimp ring is inserted over the pipe, the fitting is inserted inside the pipe, and the copper ring is crimped over the pipe and fitting using the PEX crimping tool. Tools, fittings and crimp rings are available from several suppliers. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.

Expansion Fitting Method

The expansion method involves using an expansion tool to increase the diameter of the PEX tube. Special expansion fittings are inserted into the expanded tube, which shrinks back to shape around the fitting. A plastic ring is then pressed over the fitting to insure a tight connection.

This method was developed as a proprietary solution, and is currently available from one company. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.

Cinch Clamp Method

The SSC (stainless steel clamp) method uses special clamps designed for PEX connection. The fittings used here are the same used in the “Standard Connection Method” above, but in this method the SSC fastens the PEX tube to the fitting. A special “SSC crimping tool” is used to tighten the clamp around the tube and fitting. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.

Compression Method

Standard compression fittings can be used to make connections between PEX tubing. For moderate to large size jobs this method is more expensive than using the Standard Connection Method, since compression fittings cost more than PEX fittings.

“Push-fit” and other proprietary methods

Several companies offer specialized fittings that will connect PEX to PEX or to copper, PVC and other materials as well. These fittings use one or more of several technologies such as EDPM O-ring seals, stainless steel gripping teeth, and threaded compression nuts. These fittings are faster and easier than most competing methods, but cost more per fitting than standard PEX fittings.

PEX fittings

PEX fittings are generally made of brass, although some vendors are offering bronze, copper and engineered plastic fittings for PEX. The characteristic ridges on the “insert” part of the fitting distinguish a PEX fitting from other fittings (see pictures below). The ridges, the PEX tube and the crimped copper ring all work together to form a high-pressure seal.

Adapter: PEX (top) to polybutylene	Adapter: PEX (top) to MIP	Adapter: PEX (top) to copper (sweat)

PEX tools

To work with PEX tubing using the standard crimping method, three basic tools are needed: the main crimping tool(s), a pipe cutter, and a de-crimping tool.

The pipe cutter is used to make a clean, square cut before inserting the tubing into the fitting.

The main crimping tool can be purchased in several configurations from various vendors. One popular model has the capability to crimp either 1/2″ or 3/4″ PEX tube, while another uses interchangeable crimp heads to work with any of the PEX tube sizes.

A de-crimping tool is designed to remove the copper crimp ring from the tube and fitting. Various designs all work by cutting the copper ring. Fittings can be easily re-used.

Prices for these tools can vary widely depending on the brand. Buying all the tools together in a kit can reduce the price. Lower prices are also available online using Ebay, Google or Yahoo to search for quality vendors with discounted prices (including warranties).

PEX Tubing Compatibility

Most PEX tubing is compatible with all the various connection methods, with PEX-Al-PEX being the exception.

PEX Fittings Compatibility

The Standard Crimp Ring method is the most popular method. The fittings listed under the Proprietary Connection Type column are unique to specific manufacturers, and may use unique tools. Most of these are not compatible with other PEX connection methods.

Standard PEX fittings can be used with the Standard Method and the SSC (clamp) method.

Compression fittings can be used to make connections with PEX tube, but do not use PEX fittings. They are listed to show the manufacturers that make compression fittings specifically for PEX tubing.

PEX Tool Compatibility

Standard PEX Crimp Tools are available from several vendors, while special PEX tools are required for proprietary PEX connection methods.

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Advantages of PEX Plumbing

• Flexible PEX tube is manufactured by extrusion, and shipped and stored on spools, where rigid plastic or metal piping must be cut to some practical length for shipping and storage. This leads to several advantages, including lower shipping and handling costs due to decreased weight and improved storage options.
• PEX plumbing installations require fewer fittings than rigid piping. The flexible tubing can turn 90 degree corners without the need for elbow fittings, and PEX tubing unrolled from spools can be installed in long runs without the need for coupling fittings.
• Attaching PEX tube to fittings does not require soldering, and so eliminates the health hazards involved with lead-based solder and acid fluxes; PEX is also safer to install since a torch is not needed to make connections..
• PEX resists the scale build-up common with copper pipe, and does not pit or corrode when exposed to acidic water.
• PEX is much more resistant to freeze-breakage than copper or rigid plastic pipe.
• PEX tubing does not transfer heat as readily as copper, and so conserves energy.
• Water flows more quietly through PEX tube, and the characteristic “water hammer” noise of copper pipe systems is virtually eliminated.
• PEX plumbing installations cost less because:
  • PEX is less expensive than copper pipe.
  • Less time is spent running pipe and installing fittings than with rigid pipe systems.
  • Installing fewer fittings reduces the chances for expensive callbacks.

Oxygen Barriers

Some applications require PEX with added oxygen barrier properties. Radiant floor heating (or hydronic heating systems) may include some ferrous (iron-containing) components which will corrode over time if exposed to oxygen. Since standard PEX tubing allows some oxygen to penetrate through the tube walls, various “Oxygen Barrier PEX” tubing has been designed to prevent diffusion of oxygen into these systems. Two types of specialty PEX pipe are offered:

What is Oxygen Barrier Pex?  What is Heating Pex?  What pex is used for heating systems?

Oxygen Barrier Pex.

1. Oxygen barrier PEX has a layer of polymer laminated to the outside surface (or sandwiched internally between PEX layers) that prevents oxygen from penetrating. The polymer film is usually EVOH (ethyl vinyl alcohol copolymer), used in the food industry as an oxygen barrier.

2. PEX-Al-PEX (or PEX-Aluminum-PEX or “PAP”) is a specialty PEX tubing manufactured by several suppliers. This tubing has a layer of aluminum embedded between layers of PEX to provide an oxygen barrier. PEX-Al-PEX may also be called multilayer pipe or composite plastic aluminum pipe. PEX-Al-PEX will also retain shape when bent, and may also exhibit less expansion and shrinkage during temperature fluctuations, but may be less flexible than PEX tubing. PEX-AL-PEX costs about 30% more than standard PEX.

A closer look at some pex fittings.  (There are hundreds of different types.)

Elbows Direct PEX Brass Elbows make a 90-degree connection for PEX tubing.  Tools and connection rings sold separately.	Tees Direct PEX Tee makes diverting connections for pex tubing. To assisit you in choosing the correct TEE use the following guide = (end) x (end) x (middle).  Tools and connection rings sold separately.
Male Threaded Adapters Direct PEX Brass Male Threaded Adapter transitions PEX tubing to male NPT thread.  Tools and connection rings sold separately.	Female Threaded Adapters Direct PEX Brass Female Threaded Adapter transitions PEX tubing to female NPT thread.  Tools and connection rings sold separately.
Fitting Adapters (Male Sweat) Direct PEX Brass Fitting Adapters (male sweat) transition PEX tubing to copper fittings.  Tools and connection rings sold separately.	Pipe Adapters (Female Sweat) Direct PEX Brass Sweat Adapters (female sweat) transition PEX tubing to copper pipe.  Tools and connection rings sold separately.
Plugs Direct PEX Brass Plug will terminate the end of PEX tubing. Plugs can be installed for temporary or permanent use.  Tools and connection rings sold separately.	Couplings Direct PEX Brass Coupling makes PEX-to-PEX connections for PEX tubing. Tool and connection rings sold separately.
Drop Ear Elbows Drop Ear Brass Elbow by Direct PEX provides rigid 90-degree connections and the ability to secure PEX tubing.  Tools and connection rings sold separately.	Tools Direct PEX tools include crimp tools, pipe cutters, and The PEX Pocket Crimper.  Crimp tools include go/no go gauge.
Copper Crimp Rings Copper Crimp Rings are used to make a secure connection using SDR-9 PEX tubing.	Stainless Cinch Clamps Stainless Steel Cinch Clamps are used to make a secure connection using SDR-9 PEX tubing.
Copper Manifolds Copper manifolds (Type “L”) have 1/2″ outlets, 3/4″ inlet/outlet and a 1″ body.  These manifolds can be used in radiant heat or plumbing applications.  Tools and connection rings sold separately. Available in Flow-Through or Spun Closed.	Installation Accessories Installation Accessories are the items that are used to assist in the installation of  PEX plumbing and heating systems.
PEX Valves Direct PEX Stop Valves come in either straight or angle configurations. PEX Stop Valves can be used as a shut off   anywhere in the system. All valves are quarter turn shut-off.  Tools and connection rings sold separately.

WaterHeatingInfo.com is a CT based company owned by licensed plumbers.

We provide top quality water heater installations, services, free estimates, installations and repairs on all Rheem, Ruud, Bradford white, State, and A.O. Smith electric, gas, propane, Bock, Thermaflow/Everhot oil fired hot water heaters, Navien, Rheem, Noritz, and Takagi tankless water heaters, Ruud, Bock, and lochinvar oil fired water heaters, SuperStor storage tanks, Peerless, Laars, and Crown tankless coils, and repairs on all hot water heater throughout the state of Connecticut including Bridgeport, CT- Bristol, CT- Cheshire, CT- Danbury,CT- Derby,CT- East Hartford,CT- East Haven,CT- Enfield,CT- Fairfield,CT- Hamden,CT- Hartford,CT- Meriden,CT- Orange,CT- Middletown,CT- Milford,CT- New Britain,CT- New Haven,CT- New London,CT- Norwalk,CT- East Norwalk,CT- Norwich,CT- Putnam,CT- Shelton,CT- Southington,CT- Stamford,CT- Stratford,CT- Southport,CT- Torrington,CT- Wallingford,CT- Watertown,CT- West Hartford,CT- West Haven,CT- Westport,CT- Wethersfield,CT- all shore areas, and surrounding Connecticut areas. Contact us today for a professional plumbing experience and a free estimate today. 800-524-4280

If you need some TRAC pipe ran in your home or busienss, or good old fashion black pipe don’t hesitate to call.

800-524-4280

We saw this article a few weeks ago, and thought is was great.   We give full credit to the author Daniel Snyder at factoidz.com for this terrific and very imp0rtant about fire concern & safety with TRAC pipe.

http://factoidz.com/fire-risks-involving-csst-gas-lines-and-lightning-strikes/

The dangers, and safety concerns, and benefits with all TRAC “corrugated stainless steel tubing” for new and past installations in American homes.

The 1988 commercial introduction of corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST) to distribute natural and LP gas within and throughout residential and commercial buildings was welcomed by the gas industry as a cost-effective means to deliver their product to consumers. Corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST) is a cost-effective alternative to standard threaded black-iron gas piping for residential, commercial and industrial applications. It’s light-weight, flexible, and requires fewer connections and fittings, which make it easier to install than black-iron piping. These factors add up to substantial labor savings for installers and cost savings for property owners.

Corrugated stainless steel gas tubing (CSST) consists of a continuous, flexible, stainless steel pipe with an exterior PVC covering. It is usually installed utilizing a central manifold configuration with “home runs” to gas appliances. Due to its construction, it is easily routed around obstacles and requires fewer connections than traditional gas piping.

To date, over 150 million feet of corrugated stainless steel tubing has been installed in roughly 2 million homes.

Research sponsored by the Gas Research Institute from 1983 to 1989 was used to in the creation of a nationally recognized standard for CSST systems. The initial standard was developed by the American Gas Association Laboratories in 1986, but was considered only a bench standard. It was eventually designated as AGA 1-87. This standard ultimately became an ANSI standard in 1991 which was known as ANSI/AGA LC-1-1991 “Interior Fuel Gas Piping System Using Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing.” Since that time, updating and improvements have been made to this standard, such that it is currently known as ANSI LC 1-2005/CSA 6.26-2005 “Fuel Gas Piping Systems Using Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST).” All commercially available CSST systems are certified to the list of requirements included in this standard.

All CSST manufacturers are required to publish a Design and Installation Guide that complies with the ANSI Standard. Included within this standard is the requirement to address electrical bonding and grounding. Furthermore, because of cooperation within the industry, essentially all of the design and installation guidelines are identical between all six manufacturers which is a critical point affecting the bonding of CSST systems.

http://hawkeyehomeinspects.com/documents/CSST-DANGERS.pdf

http://realtytimes.com/rtpages/20081024_homepipe.htm

http://www.gastite.com/include/languages/english/downloads/pdfs/Gastite_LightningSafety_HomeOwner.pdf

http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/corrugated-stainless-steel-tubing

http://www.fireengineering.com/display_article/361992/25/none/none/CNSTC/New-Requirements-for-CSST-Installation

http://contractormag.com/piping/mechanical_lightning_groups/

Benefits/Costs

Corrugated stainless steel piping eliminates the need for installing black iron pipe. Because of its flexibility, it can be pulled through wall and ceiling cavities in a manner similar to electrical wire. Due to the reduction in fittings, the potential for leakage is substantially reduced. Stainless steel gas tubing is easy to expand and to use in retrofits where frequent bends and turns are necessary. CSST is rated for high pressure and if it is used at higher pressure, the pipe size, and therefore material cost, can be reduced. Typically the cost to install CSST is less than that of standard black iron due to the reduction in labor costs. Even though the material costs of the fittings and tubing is higher, approximately half of the total costs is labor. However, in some instances the cost may be higher where multiple appliances are located next to one another.

Installation

CSST is installed using special fittings and cutting tools developed and approved by the manufacturers. Connections can be made quickly with the proper tools. Due to its thin-walled construction, striker plates must be installed where the gas lines penetrate wall studs to protect lines from puncture during drywall installation similar to the ones installed over water lines. Installation of a CSST system for a single-family home can be completed in less than a day. Currently CSST is not rated for underground use and should not come in contact with the ground.

Some installation tips:

• The manufacturer’s installation instructions and flexible gas tubing design should be on-site for inspections.

• The installation of CSST should be at least 6 inches above grade and limited to the interior of buildings.

• Installation of CSST should only be performed by trained technicians that have been certified by the manufacturer and the technician should be present during inspection of the installation and present their current certification card.

• All gas piping within the building that utilizes CSST should be permanently identified by a metal tag which names the CSST manufacturer that should be attached to the gas meter outlet.

• Only one CSST manufacturer’s product should be used in a system within a building. Intermixing of CSST systems is not acceptable due to the proprietary design of fittings and specific sizing criteria.

Lightning Related Issues

Lightning strikes the United States more than 25 million times each year and according to Underwriters Laboratories (UL), lightning accounts for more than $1 billion in annual structural damage. A single bolt of lightning can carry over 100 million volts of electricity, and in reality, there are no construction methods or safety measures that can completely protect a structure from a direct lightning strike. CSST gas pipe, however, is susceptible to damage from non-direct lightning strikes as well.

Lightning is one of the most destructive forces on the planet and can cause serious damage to whatever material it comes in contact with. Direct and indirect strikes on or near structures can cause severe damage to buildings and cause fires that can result in the loss of property and lives. In spite of this, and with a few exceptions, municipalities throughout the United States do not require the installation of lightning protection systems. Typical electrical grounding systems are required to address the issue of lessening the severity of the lightning energy. However, the electrical grounding system is only designed to protect the building occupants from ground-faults and not from lightning strikes. This is the reason that many systems such as electrical wiring, coax cable, metallic piping, ducting, and appliances either fail or are damaged during electrical storms.

Since the PVC coating on the tubing does not provide sufficient insulating properties to prevent the creation of an arc between the stainless steel tubing and some other bonded metallic building component, a fire can be started by way of the arc burning a hole in the tubing wall and gas exiting the tubing while in the presence of the arc.

Stainless steel has a fairly high melting point, so if a hole is found in CSST, the hole was most likely caused by lightning. Lightning activity is tracked when available through various sources, including Strike Fax reports. Remember that the lightning strike does not need to be a direct hit to the structure since strikes that are several miles away can still potentially cause CSST failures.

– Fire claims which are related to CSST failure have significant subrogation potential. However, this potential may be limited by the class-action settlement with four CSST manufacturers. It also may be limited by new developments in research regarding CSST, which may indicate that the new bonding requirements may not be sufficient to protect the CSST from sustaining a breach during a lightning event.

A hole caused by a simulated lightning strike

The National Electric Code (NEC), Section 250.104b, states that “bonding all piping and metal air ducts within the premises will provide additional safety”. Gastite recommends that all continuous metallic systems be bonded and grounded. The owner should confirm with an electrical or construction specialist that each continuous metallic system in a structure has been bonded and grounded by an electrical professional in accordance with local building codes. This should include, but is not limited to metallic chimney liners, metallic appliance vents, metallic ducting and piping, electrical cables, and structural steel.

The NEC provides extensive coverage on the subject of grounding and bonding in Section 250 of the Code. There are three basic reasons for grounding:

• To limit voltages caused by lightning or by accidental contact of the supply conductors with conductors of higher voltage

• To stabilize the voltage under normal operating conditions

• To facilitate the operation of over-current devices (such as fuses, circuit breakers or relays) under ground-fault conditions

Bonding is the permanent joining of metallic parts to form an electrically conductive path that ensures electrical continuity and the capacity to safely conduct any current likely to be imposed. The purpose of bonding is to establish an effective path for fault current that facilitates the operation of the over-current protection device.

To simplify the Code, only the electrical system is grounded for residential applications. The electrical system is grounded to earth through grounding electrodes, typically a rod, pipe or plate. However, there are other means to ground the electrical system, including the use of the reinforcing steel in the foundation. All other electrically continuous, metallic pathways (such as water pipe (if copper), coax cable and gas piping) are bonded to this grounding system. Bonding of gas piping, in particular, is installed in accordance with Section 250.104 (B):

(B) Other Metal Piping. Where installed in or attached to a building or structure, metal piping system(s), including gas piping, that is likely to become energized shall be bonded to the service equipment enclosure, the grounded conductor at the service, the grounding electrode conductor where of sufficient size, or to one or more grounding electrodes used. The bonding jumper(s) shall be sized in accordance with 250.122, using the rating of the circuit that is likely to energize the piping system(s). The equipment grounding conductor for the circuit that is likely to energize the piping shall be permitted to serve as the bonding means. The points of attachment of the bonding jumper(s) shall be accessible.

FPN: Bonding all piping and metal air ducts within the premises will provide additional safety.

Referring to Section 250.122 (Size of Equipment Grounding Conductors), Table 250.122 provides guidance for sizing the bonding jumper for the gas piping system:

(A) General. Copper, aluminum, or copper-clad aluminum equipment grounding conductors of the wire type shall not be smaller than shown in Table 250.122 but shall not be required to be larger than the circuit conductors supplying the equipment.

Table 250.122: Minimum Size Equipment Grounding Conductors for Grounding Raceways and Equipment:

15 AMP 14 AWG Copper

20 AMP 12 AWG Copper

30/40/60 AMP 10 AWG Copper

100 AMP 8 AWG Copper

200 AMP 6 AWG Copper

CSST should not be installed within a chase or enclosure that houses a metallic chimney liner or appliance vent that protrudes through the roof. In the event such an installation is necessary and conforms to local building codes, the metallic chimney liner or vent must be bonded and grounded by a qualified electrical professional, and a separation distance, as specifically permitted by the applicable local building code between the CSST and the metallic chimney liner or vent, is required. Physical contact between CSST and the metallic chimney liner and/or vent is prohibited.

http://www.gastite.com/include/languages/english/downloads/pdfs/Gastite_LightningSafety_HomeOwner.pdf

Since nearly half of all new homes contain CSST, homeowners and new homebuyers should be aware of the concerns and have a qualified home inspector verify that the bonding of all metallic components were properly done.

NFPA 54 – National Fuel Gas Code

Corrugated stainless steel is more vulnerable to arcing damage than other gas piping materials because of its thinner wall thickness. NFPA 54 was revised in the 2009 edition to address this, based on a number of incidents that became apparent after a class action lawsuit was settled. Section 7.13, Electrical Bonding and Grounding, has been revised to require that all CSST systems be bonded to the electrical service ground where the gas service enters the building using at least a 6 AWG copper conductor or equivalent. NFPA 54 requires that CSST be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions in 7.2.8.

Areas with high lightning risk include but are not limited to:

Florida
Texas
South Carolina
Tennessee
Alabama
Arkansas
Georgia
Illinois
Indiana
Iowa
Kentucky
Louisiana
Maryland
Michigan
Mississippi
Missouri
New Mexico
North Carolina
Ohio
Oklahoma
Pennsylvania
Virginia
West Virginia

Most manufacturers use a thin yellow PVC jacket for the coating on the CSST. However, one manufacturer (Omegaflex) has developed a CSST product called CounterStrike™ that is specifically designed to dissipate the energy from an arc from another energized metallic system. The standard yellow coating is replaced with a thicker proprietary black jacket material designed to dissipate energy along its length. Omegaflex claims that the CounterStrike™ product inhibits lightning energy from concentrating at any point along the gas line and spreads out the energy over a larger area. This feature minimizes the possibility of a breach of the tubing wall when the CSST is struck by an arc.

Even with the modifications to the bonding requirements and new manufacturing variations, some local and state code officials feel compelled to review the new ANSI standard and may reject the recommendations stated within the standard.

Class-Action Lawsuit

Some manufacturers warrant their CSST and fitting for a period of one year after installation.

There have been reports of fires caused by lightning strikes near homes with CSST flexible gas piping. The cause of these fires has been attributed to either a lack of or inadequate bonding of the CSST, which resulted in arcing damage to the tubing. A class action law suit involving four CSST manufacturers: Omegaflex (TRACPIPE or COUNTERSTRIKE); Parker-Hannifin Corp. (PARFLEX); Titeflex Corp. (GASTITE); and Wward Manufacturing, Inc. (WARDFLEX). The parties to the suit have signed a Settlement Agreement that provides class members with a partial to full financial reimbursement for either a lightning protection system or upgraded bonding of their existing CSST system. For further information on the Settlement Agreement, visit www.CSSTsettlement.com; call the Administrator at 1-800-420-2916; or write to the CSST Settlement Administrator at P.O. Box 4349, Portland, OR 97208-4349.

Although only four of the six CSST manufacturers were parties to the Class Action suit, all six have informally agreed to upgrade their bonding requirements for the CSST system. The new bonding method requires the attachment of a bonding clamp to either the CSST fitting or to a piece of steel pipe located near the service entrance to the building. The bonding jumper shall be no smaller than a 6 AWG copper wire for residential applications. Although the final bonding solution is essentially the same for all six manufacturers, the six technical pronouncements appear to be different.

A bonding clamp connected to the steel gas line near CSST connection fitting

Confusion arises with the requirement to size the bonding jumper in accordance with Table 250.66. This table is intended for the sizing of the grounding electrode conductor which is not the same as the bonding jumper. The grounding electrode conductor is based on the size of the ungrounded service conductor at the entrance of the building. This can result in a bonding jumper much larger than a 6 AWG copper wire especially for large buildings and/or multi-family structures. Using the exception in Section 250.66(A), if a rod, plate, or pipe is used as the grounding electrode, the grounding electrode conductor need not be larger than a 6 AWG copper wire. The argument may still need to be made that the bonding jumper be sized in a similar fashion. This exception is open to interpretation and can be misused when sizing the bonding jumper and caution is recommended when referring to this particular section of the NEC.

The CSST must be bonded only at the end nearest the entry of the gas service into the building. If it is bonded at both ends, or at the end nearest the gas-burning appliance, the CSST may carry stray electrical currents or act as a grounding conductor, which can damage the CSST and its fittings, and cause leaks.

Sources:

Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing for Fuel Gas Distribution in Buildings and Concerns over Lightning Strikes (The NAHB Research Center, Inc.)

August 2007

ToolBase Services

Manufacturer Links:

Ward Manufacturing http://www.wardmfg.com/

Omegaflex http://www.tracpipe.com/

Gastitehttp://www.gastite.com/

Parker Hannifin Corporationhttp://www.parker.com/parflexsystem/

Tru-Flex Metal Hose http://www.tru-flex.com/

Metal-Fab Inc.

http://www.mtlfab.com/

Links:

Mechanical, lightning groups at odds over CSST

http://contractormag.com/piping/mechanical_lightning_groups/

Improved Routing Requirements for Gastite® CSST November 21, 2008

http://www.gastite.com/include/languages/english/downloads/pdfs/TB2008_02.pdf

Disclaimer: The information on the system, product or material presented herein is provided for informational purposes only. The technical descriptions, details, requirements, and limitations expressed do not constitute an endorsement, approval, or acceptance of the subject matter and individuals should utilize a licensed professional in determining the appropriate specifications that pertain to their project.

• Facts About PEX Tubing and PEX Fitting Dezincification
• Residential Fire Sprinkler Systems – Installation and Inspection Considerations

CPVC, Pex, or Copper?  What is best, what’s the difference.

CPVC is the worst way to go IMO.  builders love it because it’s cheap!  That’s the only reason anyone would ever use it.  We don’t use it ever.  Where does all the glue residue go after it’s installed?  A certain amount, (be it even a small amount) goes right into you glass.  Any amount is way to much toxic glue for my families or clients. Not to mention, if you ever want to add on anything, like tap into the plumbing system for a new water line for a ice maker.  You have to shut down the entire house for 24 hours to let the piping’s glue set. Lastly the stuff is fragile, for example someone accidentally grabbed, kicked, or hung some clothes to dry on the pipes, it could just plain snap and flood your house because the pipe is just glued into the joints/fittings, I have heard of cpvc pipe popping right out of joint simple because someone didn’t use enough glue. CPVC has no “easy” visual indication that it has been installed properly, where as you can see an indication  for both copper and pex.

Copper is great, but extremely expensive, and labor intensive to install properly.  Also naturally occurring minerals in well water, and even town provided water.  aka “city water” can and will break down the copper at it’s weakest points over time. The pex water system prevents accelerated corrosion and deterioration between pipes made from dissimilar metals,  (meaning, well systems should use pex- no question) Copper is ok with well systems as long as dielectric unions are installed throughout the well system, but that’s costly and takes a lot of time to install properly.

PEX, is currently the best system IMO.  It’s getting more expensive now that it has gotten so popular in the industry, but still much less expensive than copper.  It’s very reliable when installed properly, and much more durable than cpvc because the joints on Pex fittings allows it to flex, where the cpvc doesn’t,  Pex is also much better against premature break down that is associated with well water.  Faster, Easier, More Reliable = why the plumbing industry has gone bonkers over the pex system.   (note: be careful when buying PEX, many cheap imports from China have come in, and are being sold every where (online for very low prices) and i expect to see some problems associated with these products in the future.  Much like the problems with China producing cheap PVC DWV (drain-waste-vent) piping in the 80’s, before we temporally outlawed it at our ports, and created a new standardized system that stamped out shorty PVC from even entering America after that point.  You should ONLY buy pex in plumbing supply stores IMO.

Why won’t my power vent water heater stay on???
Well that could be many different things for all the different kinds of water heaters there are in the world today.
However if you have a power-vent heater, this is the article you want to read!

Power vent water heaters have special sensors built in that tells the burner when it’s safe to light, and when it’s not safe to light/ turn on.
On the side of the gas burner will be 1 – 5 or more lights that may or may not be blinking.  (older power vent heater have 1-3 lights)  (newer power vent water heaters now have 4-5 lights, depending on the brand.)
These lights indicate what the actual problem is within it’s code.  (the order of the lit lights, or speed of the flashing lights is the coded message)
-Refer to the owners manual within the trouble shooting, error code section.
It’s a good idea to find out for yourself what the problem is before you call the plumber, and it’s pretty easy to do.

When a power vented water heater stops producing hot water and you see a blinking lights on the gas control box there is a problem some where in the burner,  fan,  possibly something is causing a ventilation restriction etc.   For one reason or another most likely the reason it’s not working correctly is with the safety sensors.

If a new power vent water heater isn’t working correctly you can bet it’s an issue with the sometimes “overly sensitive”  safety sensors.  The power vented water heaters censors will not allow the heat to turn on properly until the problem is fixed.   I have heard of A O Smith power shot “power vent” water heaters not working after the home owner painted the basement, or room near the water heater.    You also can not have gas cans, paint cans, or anything that might produce flammable vapors anywhere near the thing.    New power vent water heaters are much safer than previous generations.   Safer than ever, but more sensitive, and more expensive than ever.  Your new power vent water heater might not work properly, where as your old unit worked fine in that same exact location for 20 years.  The reason is one of the safety sensors.

Why do new power vent water heaters seem like junk?
Some are!   We only install Rheem power vent water heaters now.    I wish it weren’t true but we get a lot of calls with people having problems with A.O. Smith & State power vented water heaters, and if you Google search “ao smith power vent problems”  you will see there are more than a few people that think their a o smith power shot heater is complete junk.

Why did the water heating industry put all these safety sensors in the water heaters now?
The federal government put pressure on the industry to make water heaters safer.   Every company had to comply, and that’s the main reason why the price has increased for water heaters across the board.
Power vent water heaters are considered more dangerous than most styles so they now are jam packed with the most safety sensors.

Why do you need a power vent water heater?
You don’t have a properly working chimney.   Chimneys naturally draw the hot air up and out of the home safely.  Since you don’t have a properly functioning chimney, and you need a motor to push the carbon dioxide out of the house, and that motor better be working properly if you want to wake up tomorrow morning.

How can I get my power vented water heater working temporarily?
To not take a chance with your, or your families safety and force the power vented water heater to turn on!
-Do NOT EVER force open the gas control valve to get the power vented water heater “working.”
-Do not re light the power vented water heater over and over again.
-Never by-pass safety devices in order to force it to stay lit!

I know you have everyone saying in your home that everyone “needs” hot water, but they really don’t.   You have cold water, brush you teeth wash your face and call a plumber in the morning.  You don’t want to gamble with any loved ones lives, or tenets lives for that matter.  Forcing the power vented hot water heater could lead to you to either potentially having a bomb under you, or a poisonous gas producing machine right under you and your family.  Don’t believe me?   Dozens of families around the county die in their sleep purely because of faulty water heaters.

Power vented water heaters are expensive, at least $700- 800 at the lowest whole sale pricing available, and none of them seem to last longer than ten to twelve years, but it’s worth the peace of mind to insure your families safety with a new power vented water heater.

What’s a good replacement option to the power vent water heater?
That would be the tankless water heater.  If you can afford it, put the extra money towards a tankless water heater.   A quality Tankless water heater properly installed will last 3 times longer than a power vent water heaters, saving you the hassle of replacements, problems, faulty tanks, and the stress that goes along with it.

Who installs power vent water heater locally?
Plumbers that install power vent water heaters.
We install power vented water heaters at industry low labor rates.

Common power vent error codes.
We will be getting a list of the most popular error codes from the top three companies (AO Smith, State, & Rheem) and publish them here soon.

If you need help with your power vent water heater contact us today.

Looking for a flood protection device?    Here is a few of the best of flood protection products for dishwashers, water heaters, water filters, washing machines, ice makers.

For a few hundred dollars having one of these devices can let you sleep worry free from a flood, and all the damage the goes along with it.

We don’t stock them, but if you need one installed properly and your located in Connecticut give us a call.   We will order one, and install it for an affordable price.
800-542-2480

FloodStop Systems

ALL “Ball Valve” Flood Protection Devices.

FloodStop System FS3/4H-90
Flood protection devices for the Laundry Room.
Spec. Sheet for FS3/4H-90
FloodStop is a point of use, leak detection and automatic water shut-off system designed for residential, condo and apartment dwellings. It uses automatic, motorized ball valves to shut off the water supply when it senses a washing machine leak.

FloodStop System FS3/4NPT and FS125NPT (with pipe fittings)
Flood protection devices for the Water Heaters.
Spec Sheet for FS3/4NPT Spec Sheet for FS125NPT
FloodStop is a point of use, leak detection and automatic water shut-off system designed for residential, condo and apartment dwellings. It uses automatic, motorized ball valves to shut off the water supply when it senses a water heater leak.

FloodStop System FS3/4C (with compression fittings)
Flood protection for the Water Heaters.
FloodStop is a point of use, leak detection and automatic water shut-off system designed for residential, condo and apartment dwellings. It uses automatic, motorized ball valves to shut off the water supply when it senses a washing machine leak.

FloodStop
Food protection devices for the Dishwasher, and Toilet.
Spec Sheet for FS3/8C
Using our 3/8 inch compression fitting valve, you can protect your home against other flood sources.  It’s easy to install and you’ll never have to worry about malfunctions that will flood your home again.

FloodStop
Flood protection devices for Water Filters & Ice maker.
Spec Sheet for FS1/4C
Using our 1/4  inch compression fitting valve, you can protect your home against flood sources such as your water filtration unit or ice-maker.

Thhere are many Flood Protection Devices, these are just a few from FloodStop.  The list will grow over time.

Please add some other companies, and products in the comment section below!

Connecticut residents give us a call to install or replace you next Flood Protection device in your home or business. We specialize in the repair and installations of flood prevention products for New Haven & Fairfield Connecticut.

Bruce Somers Plumbing llc.

If you need a great plumber in Connecticut, or a free estimate to fix or replace your current flood protection product.
Give us a call today.

Main office  – 24 hour emergency water heater repair or replacement services.

(800) 524-4280

Bruce Somers – Master Plumber-   over 25 years experience

(Most of the pictures on this site are of Bruce’s work)

52 Bonney Terrace, Fairfield, CT 06824
E-mail    mr.waterheaters@yahoo.com

State Licensing: P-01 Plumbing, 0285038, 10-31-2010
CT Insurance: General Liability, $2,000,000; 07-28-2010

Bruce Somers plumbing llc provides services, free estimates, installations and repairs on all Rheem, Ruud, Bradford white, State, and A.O. Smith electric, gas, propane, Bock, Thermaflow/Everhot oil fired hot water heaters, Navien, Rheem, Noritz, and Takagi tankless water heaters, Ruud, Bock, and lochinvar oil fired water heaters, SuperStor storage tanks, Peerless, Laars, and Crown tankless coils, and repairs on all hot water heater throughout the state of Connecticut including Bridgeport, CT- Bristol, CT- Cheshire, CT- Danbury,CT- Derby,CT- East Hartford,CT- East Haven,CT- Enfield,CT- Fairfield,CT- Hamden,CT- Hartford,CT- Meriden,CT- Orange,CT- Middletown,CT- Milford,CT- New Britain,CT- New Haven,CT- New London,CT- Norwalk,CT- East Norwalk,CT- Norwich,CT- Putnam,CT- Shelton,CT- Southington,CT- Stamford,CT- Stratford,CT- Southport,CT- Torrington,CT- Wallingford,CT- Watertown,CT- West Hartford,CT- West Haven,CT- Westport,CT- Wethersfield,CT- all shore areas, and surrounding Connecticut areas. Contact us today for a professional plumbing experience and a free estimate today. 800-524-4280